La Promenade des Anglais

by Anne Maxfield on February 20, 2012

Accidental Locavore Promenade ExteriorThe Accidental Locavore found that one advantage of having had a hand in a splint (and trust me, in NYC there are only a few and why don’t they make splints in safety orange?) is that from time to time people would comment on it and once a seat on the subway was offered to me. The splint turned out to be how I met the extremely handsome, charming and French chef de cuisine of La Promenade des Anglais  – Alain. Oh, and did I mention he can cook?

While the menu, at first glance, looked a little disappointing, it was only because I was somehow thinking it would be a replica of le Safari, our favorite place in Nice. The restaurant itself is lovely, with big marble bars and a warm staff that made me feel welcome just walking in off the street. I was there, meeting some people for a drink before the holidays and we had a great time, sitting in the back bar, drinking.

Suddenly, this extremely handsome man in chef whites, came over and was asking about my hand. We all got to talking and it turned out that he was the chef de cuisine there. Alain has also worked in some of the finest restaurants in France, so has an impressive CV. We asked him for some appetizer suggestions and decided on the burrata and some roasted baby artichokes. Both were delicious, the burrata being properly buttery and accompanied by grilled hunks of bread. The artichokes were small, cut in half and roasted, served with a smear of a lemony anchovy sauce, to run them through. Oh, and did I mention he was handsome?

Now that my husband is back from exile, we grabbed a couple of friends and made a reservation for dinner so we could really enjoy the whole menu. One of the advantages of going with a group of food lovers is that everyone is willing to share and there are a lot (maybe too many?) “dishes for the table,” which essentially means that we ordered too much food.

Accidental Locavore Promenade des AnglaisIn general, the appetizers were the high point of the meal. The Locavore had the veal tartare which was slick (in a good way) with olive oil and lots of grainy Dijon. A surprising hit were the croquettes, but then how could you go wrong with fried food? The fish soup was a quick trip back to the South of France, in a bowl.

The main courses weren’t as successful. For once, we really didn’t order any meat, sticking to pasta and fish. I had the swordfish with harissa. The fish was perfectly cooked to a just past quivering point, however the harissa lacked heat. The winning dish was the paccheri (a large tube pasta) with rabbit and hazelnuts—a great combination. Other fish and pasta dishes were tasty, but everything just seemed a little safe.

And Alain? Still looking good and a perfect host, stopping by our table to meet everyone and comparing notes with the other “Nicoise” chef in our midst. Added bonus, he’s going to fill us in on where to eat in Nice for our upcoming trip!

 

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Accidental Locavore Makes Gnocchi: A Recipe

by Anne Maxfield on February 16, 2012

Accidental Locavore GnocchiFor a long time the Accidental Locavore has wanted to learn how to make gnocchi, one of my favorite forms of pasta, but classes never worked with my schedule. When Haven’s Kitchen had a gnocchi class that did fit, it seemed like a perfect opportunity. And wouldn’t a sparkling new kitchen be just the place?

As it turns out, making gnocchi is pretty easy. It’s just like making pasta, with the added step of cooking and ricing potatoes. Unlike pasta (and more like making biscuits) you need to have a light touch. What was surprising was how delicate the dough was, which was good because you automatically started to treat it with respect.

The bad news? Once you’ve had homemade gnocchi, you’ll never order it in a restaurant again. Here’s the recipe (which makes at least enough to feed 4):

  • 4 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1″ pieces
  • 2 eggs, very well beaten
  • 1 cup of flour, divided into two 1/2 cup portions, plus flour for kneading the dough

Bring the potatoes to boil in a saucepan filled with cold water* and a big handful of salt. The water should be salty enough to taste like the sea…seriously!  When the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes, drain them and put them through a food mill or potato ricer into a large bowl (wide and shallow is better than tall and deep).

Gently push the potatoes to the sides of the bowl to form a well at the bottom of the bowl. Add 1/2 cup of the flour to the bottom of the bowl. Add the beaten eggs and top with the remaining 1/2 cup flour. Very gently, starting in the center, start to mix the eggs and flour. As they become combined, start to gently stir in the potatoes. When the dough is well-mixed, but not over-processed, turn it out on to a well-floured board.

If it’s not completely mixed, knead it a couple of times** until everything is thoroughly combined. Form it into a rectangle about 1″ thick. Cut the big rectangle into 1″ strips. Lightly flour your hands. Take one of the strips, sprinkle with flour and gently roll into a long rope about 3/4″ thick. Cut the rope into 1/2“ (or bigger depending on how large you want your gnocchi) pieces. Place the pieces on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Again, gnocchi like wide and deep, rather than tall and narrow, so use your widest pot. Cook the gnocchi until they start to float to the top, about 2-3 minutes, depending on size. Toss with your favorite sauce, serve and enjoy!

 

* Here’s something the Locavore learned: the reason for the cold water is potatoes won’t cook evenly in hot water (the centers never catch up with the outsides).

**Something else I learned, always knead in the same direction, gluten likes a one-way street.

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A Hot Chocolate Tour of New York. What Are The Top Three?

by Anne Maxfield on February 13, 2012

Accidental Locavore Choco Bolo

The Accidental Locavore decided to metaphorically take lemons & make lemonade today. Out of the blue, the afternoon was going to be spent meeting people for coffee at three different places, all known for pouring a reasonable (or better) hot chocolate. So, in the interest of sugar and caffeine, I decided to do an informal taste test (just hope my trainer isn’t reading this).

First stop: Choco Bolo on the Upper West Side. It’s cute, like an American idea of a French tea shoppe. One of those places with heavily painted and over-painted walls with rickety looking little tables that are impossible to budge. There is the token good-looking waiter/actor who brings the carefully decorated hot chocolate to the table. It’s a big cup, of a pretty straight-forward chocolate, not too much foam and no whipped cream (both pluses in the Locavore’s book).

Accidental Locavore City BakeryFurther downtown is one of the pinnacles of hot chocolate in New York — City Bakery. If their regular blend wasn’t rich enough for you, during the month of February they celebrate with a different flavor of hot chocolate every day. Today it’s Vietnamese Cinnamon. Being a purist, I’m always fine with the  normal blend, but while I was waiting for Susan of Naturally Susan’s, a line of natural beauty care, one of the baristas asked me if I wanted a free cup that he couldn’t get anyone to claim. It turned out to be the cinnamon special with a marshmallow. Thick and dense, with the cinnamon giving it a nice warm spice. The marshmallow, although delicious, was definitely overkill! City Bakery’s chocolate always reminds me of the amazing stuff at Angelina’s in Paris. Big difference? At Angelina they give you a big pitcher of whipped cream, so you can thin the chocolate out.

Accidental Locavore Eataly Hot ChocolateThe third and thankfully last, was at the coffee bar in Eataly. Now you’re going to be surprised, but yes, Italians (or their NYC counterparts) do make hot chocolate. This cup was the darkest of all three, looking like a thicker version of a very large espresso. The texture was a more like syrup, less like what you would associate with the cocoa of your childhood. It was very good chocolate, dark and dense.

My verdict? Of the three, City Bakery was the winner. The chocolate is really good, the drink is thick and rich, but you always know you’re drinking hot chocolate. Eataly was a surprising second. Their chocolate was also good, but the texture was just a little slick. Choco Bolo came in third. That cup is closer to the cocoa you had as a kid, probably made with cocoa powder and milk rather than by melting chocolate like the other two. There are other major contenders here in NY, but this is just where I ended up on a particular winter Wednesday. What’s your favorite?

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Accidental Locavore Split Pea SoupWhen faced recently with the promise of a long day without food, what was the Accidental Locavore to do? Why, cook, of course! Come on, you know it beats staring longingly at the Food Network. Before checking into the hospital (to have work done on my hand) I decided to put a batch of split pea soup in the slow cooker, that way it would be there waiting for me. Added bonus, my apartment would smell wonderful! There were some beautiful smoked ham hocks I had brought back from Maine, so they went in with the usual carrot, celery and split pea suspects. The other benefit of using the slow cooker for this was that you could just dump everything in and leave it to work its magic. This made a lot of soup, and like a lot of things slowly cooked, was better the next day.

  • 1 pound dried split peas
  • 1 good sized carrot, diced (if you’re a carrot & celery fan, feel free to add a couple more)
  • 1 stalk celery, diced
  • ½ cup onion, chopped
  • 2 smoked ham hocks
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • bay leaf
  • ¼ cup parsley, chopped
  • 1 1/2 quarts chicken stock (you can use any kind of stock, or even just water or a combo)
  • Salt (go easy, the ham may be plenty salty) and pepper, to taste

Put all ingredients in a large slow cooker, in the order listed. Cover and cook on high for 8 hours, until the peas are tender and the ham falls off the bone. When the soup has cooked, remove the ham hocks, shred the meat and add it back to the pot (toss the bones). Stir to mix well, serve and enjoy!

My verdict: What I forgot, was that I wouldn’t have the use of my left hand so when the Locavore got home, although the soup was smelling delicious, there was no way of one-handedly shredding steamy ham hocks! I let the soup cool overnight and very awkwardly worked on it the next morning. The soup was very good. I’m not a big fan of celery and carrots, so I only used one of each (for concept). Although the recipe said you didn’t have to soak the peas the night before, it would probably have been a good idea. What I might do the next time, would be to toss the split peas and the chicken stock in the slow cooker the night before, just to let them soak, then add everything else the next morning and cook. Having really good ham hocks made it taste the way I like split pea soup, smoky and meaty.

 

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Calcu 2008 Carménère Reserva: Bordeaux’s Chilean Cousin

February 6, 2012
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Pin it Towards the end of last year, the Accidental Locavore was sent a bottle of Chilean wine to taste and review from the Thomas Collective. I met one of their people on the Brooklyn Pizza Tour. When they sent it, they had no way of knowing my affinity for things Chilean. A good friend [...]

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Accidental Locavore Recipe for Corn Soup

February 2, 2012

Pin it The Accidental Locavore can’t think of a cozier place to be on a snowy January day, then in the kitchen. Rather than shovel snow, or worse, get stuck watching football, the Locavore thought  it was time for corn soup. This recipe, adapted from Bobby Flay’s Bar Americain cookbook, has intrigued me since this summer, [...]

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Will Your Birthday Cake Outlive You?

January 30, 2012
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Pin it Have you ever considered that a piece of your birthday cake could outlive you? The Accidental Locavore understands that there are certain cakes (you know the kind) that look like they could be preserved for eternity, but never really thought anyone would put it to the test. Wrong! And no, it was not for [...]

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How to: Pick Tomatillos

January 27, 2012

Pin it The Accidental Locavore shows you what to look for in choosing tomatillos. Tomatillos should be smooth, firm and bright green in color. Avoid any that are shriveled or have soft spots. Unlike their tomato cousins, they’re fine refrigerated. To use them, peel off the papery skins and rinse well. Try them in my [...]

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Recipe for Mexican Style Fish With Potatoes and Salsa

January 26, 2012

Pin it So far, the Accidental Locavore has stuck to my once-a-week seafood goal. A piece of cod found in the freezer clean-out inspired this recipe, based on one of my favorites: Rick Bayliss’ Mexican Everyday. Below is his recipe, for 4 people. It’s easy and fast. I use half the potatoes and fish to serve 2 and keep [...]

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Recipe for My Green Tomatillo Salsa

January 26, 2012

Pin it The Accidental Locavore has always preferred tomatillo salsa to the classic red variety. In the winter when tomatoes are awful, tomatillos are a lot more dependable, flavor-wise. This is an easy recipe and makes about 1 1/2 cups of salsa. 10-12 tomatillos, husks removed and rinsed 1-2 Serrano chiles (jalapeños are fine too) [...]

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