Accidental Locavore

Accidental Locavore: DIY Butter Recipe

by Anne Maxfield on May 16, 2013

Accidental Locavore Butter and ButtermilkIn the spirit of competition, or something, the Accidental Locavore decided to add homemade butter to the better butter comparison. Making butter is pretty easy, you just abuse heavy cream long enough and it starts to separate into butter and buttermilk. You may have experienced this if you’ve ever made whipped cream and let it go a little too long. The toughest part of the butter-making process is that you need to have heavy cream that’s not ultra-pasteurized and that’s become harder to find in your local supermarket. Luckily, and in the spirit of keeping it local, Hudson Valley Fresh has a heavy cream that’s not ultra-pasteurized. Unfortunately, three out of the four cartons I bought turned out to be past their expiration dates – not so “fresh.” However, they tasted fine so I proceeded on.

Accidental Locavore Making ButterThere are lots of ways to make your own butter, but they all end up being “beat it” or “shake it.” Taking the beating path: put four half pint cartons of heavy cream into a mixer and let it go on medium high for about 8 minutes until it starts to look like whipped cream. Then, turn it up to high and in a few more minutes it will start to separate into butter and buttermilk. You’ll know when this happens because if you don’t cover the top of the mixing bowl, buttermilk will start spattering all over the kitchen (there’s a lesson here…).

Once you’ve got separation, line a colander with a layer of cheesecloth and place over a bowl. Pour the contents of your mixing bowl into the colander. You’ll end up with buttermilk in the bowl and butter in the colander. Pick up the butter in the cheesecloth and squeeze as much of the buttermilk as you can out of it. Store the buttermilk in a container in the fridge and use it for biscuits, salad dressing, or crème frâiche.

If you would like to salt your butter, put it in a bowl, sprinkle a little (1/4 teaspoon) salt on it and knead it until the salt is well mixed in. Now just form it into logs, wrap in plastic or waxed paper and foil, serve and enjoy. My 4 cups of heavy cream made about 12 ounces of butter and 1 1/2 cups of buttermilk.

My verdict: It’s certainly easy enough and it was tasty. Possibly better milk (i.e. cream) would have made a better product. However at $2.99 per half pint, my 12 ounces of butter cost $11.96 – almost a dollar an ounce, about what the expensive butters cost. So, in terms of time and cost, I think I’ll stick to Cabot for daily use and one of the “better butters” for the good stuff.

 

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Top 50 Bottles: How Much Hot Sauce is Too Much?

by Anne Maxfield on February 4, 2013

Accidental Locavore Too Much Hot SauceAs the Accidental Locavore was moving recently and, in the process, combining the contents of two kitchens (never a good idea), it occurred to me that there might be a tipping point for certain condiments. How much hot sauce or mustard does someone need? When is it overkill and when is it simply overwhelming?

My friend, Ivan, lives in Texas so he was the first person I asked (Texas being a center of hot sauce, at least in my jaded NY mind). He said 16 bottles or two eight-packs. Not sure of the rationale behind that, but hey… On the other hand, my aunt would say more than one is excessive – however she’s not a fan of spicy, so I always hid the bottle from her when I put a drop or two of Tabasco in my Hollandaise sauce. Another friend, Julie, was taught that if “it lights a ring of fire on its exit, it’s too much!” Personally, I think that speaks to the strength of the hot sauce, rather than the number of bottles, don’t you?

Well, we’re so far beyond 16 bottles, or even 32, that it could be considered embarrassing.  Six bottles got tossed out in the move, but just combining the contents of the two refrigerators, we’ve easily got more than a dozen bottles. Besides my homemade, from some great jalapenos last summer, there’s half a dozen bottles from a Kickstarter project I backed (and will write about shortly), and bottles of stuff we haven’t even opened yet…

Like most things you have too much of, nearly all these hot sauces languish on the shelf. Of the (ready for this?) 50 bottles (before purging and/or combining), now down to 35, how many are actually in use? Tabasco in either the red or green version, occasionally the chipotle one. A strange one we picked up in Las Vegas from a Greek restaurant there – Paymon’s Racy Red Sauce. Harissa, especially since our friend Jamilla keeps us supplied with her homemade version (delicious and very hot!). And finally, the two I could put on almost anything (and the only ones we buy in big bottles): Frank’s Red Hot and Sriracha.

Accidental Locavore the StraysAll of which still leaves us with about two dozen, possibly wonderful, bottles. Do we just hang on to them, waiting for that day something cries out for a new heat? Do we just toss them – unloved, untasted, unwanted? No, let’s have a contest!

For the most interesting use of hot sauce and/or the most amusing comment on this blog, or all of the above, the lucky winner(s) will receive a random bottle from the collection. So, time to get creative!

But wait there’s more! Found another 7 bottles hiding out in a shopping bag, bringing the grand total to 57 bottles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The Cannoli Mystique. Are You A Tifosi?

by Anne Maxfield on January 21, 2013

Accidental Locavore Cannoli 2The Accidental Locavore needs a cannoli re-education. There’s something lacking in my makeup that recognizes the true goodness of cannoli. Hearing people raving about them, one always thinks one is going to be biting into pure nirvana–and it never happens! Now, your first reaction is probably “that’s because you’ve never had a good one” or “that’s because you’ve never had one from____”. Well, according to people who I think know a good cannolo (singular of cannoli), I have had good ones, and ones made fresh from Italian bakeries of renown. And they still leave me shaking my head in disappointment.

OK, so it’s probably prejudice. For me, French baking has it all over Italian baking. From bread to pastries, I’m going to pick France over Italy any day. There are a lot of other food and drink areas where the Italians definitely give the French a run for their money, or exceed, but not when it comes to baked goods. Other than cannoli, what’s the first Italian pastry that comes to mind? See what I mean?

A cannolo is a pretty simple concept; a deep fried cookie tube filled with sweetened ricotta. And like many seemingly simple things, difficult to execute properly. First, the tubes are never very good. There’s just no finesse to them. Thick, boring and almost flavorless they’re really just a vehicle for transporting the ricotta filling to your mouth. A spoon would work better. And the tradition of topping them with powdered sugar is pretty but adds unnecessary sugariness.

Then, the ricotta filling is always too sweet (this was the issue with the ricotta ice cream I made this summer). Now, this may sound crazy, but here’s where I think adding chocolate chips makes sense, mostly because they temper the cloying sweetness and add some much-needed texture. Otherwise, you just have mouthful after mouthful of clumps of cream and shards of shell.

You’re probably wondering what set me off on this anti-cannoli rant. I was in the butcher’s upstate and was offered a mini cannolo, while my order was being wrapped up. I took it, ate it and tried to be appreciative of its cinnamon-dusted shell. In the car on the way home, recovering from the staggering sweetness I started wondering why people get all excited by this particular treat. What are your thoughts? Are you one of the cannoli tifosi?

 

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Fear of Roasting II: Pan Roasting

by Anne Maxfield on January 14, 2013

Accidental Locavore Roast Rack of LambOK, so last week the Accidental Locavore got you started down the roasting trail. But what if you don’t want to cook a big hunk of meat? What if you have something like a chop or a bunch of chops? For pan roasting, the list of essentials is shorter but you need to have the right gear and be a little more hands-on. Two things are critical here and they’re both in your head – letting the meat sear long enough in the pan and letting it rest long enough at the end. As with regular roasting, letting your meat come to room temperature will give you better results, but if you forget, it’s not critical.

For this you need: 

  1. The oven again
  2. A stove-top burner that you can get some decent heat out of
  3. A cast-iron skillet or an oven-proof pan
  4. Meat – this time chops, a steak, fish. Whatever you use has to have some thickness. Think of this as the indoor version of grilling something.
  5. Spices: salt and pepper at a minimum, Montreal Steak Seasoning is my go-to for steaks, and any fresh herbs, or garlic.
  6. Olive oil and/or butter

Pan roast it:

Preheat the oven to 350°. Heat the pan over high heat. Pat a little olive oil into your meat, along with the salt and pepper and whatever spices you’re using. Sear the meat on one side until it’s dark golden brown. This is going to take a minute or two longer than you’re probably comfortable with (see the intro), but don’t mess with it! When it’s got nicely brown, turn it and let the other side sear for about a minute. Toss the pan in the oven and cook to desired doneness. Place it on a plate or cutting board and let it rest for at least 10 minutes. You’re going to be tempted to start carving into that great-looking piece of meat, but don’t (also see the intro)! Use the time to make a quick pan sauce (toss a little wine or some stock into the pan, scrape up the brown bits and let them melt into the stock, add some herbs, a little butter or a tablespoon of cream to finish it, taste and adjust seasonings) or cook a veg. Carve, serve and enjoy!

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