February 2011

Accidental Locavore Marcus Samuelsson

The Red Rooster, Marcus Samuelsson’s newest restaurant was host to a great party last week. When the Accidental Locavore got the invitation from Morgan Stanley Smith Barney, I jumped at the chance. How often do you get to try one of New York’s hottest restaurants early on, at a private party or get bankers to feed you? And since I’ve never tasted Marcus Samuelsson’s food, I was curious. Who wouldn’t be? After all, he is the winner of the most recent Top Chef Masters, and you know you wouldn’t turn down the chance for (good) free food, would you?

What I was drinking: Paul Jaboulet Parallele 45 Cote de Rhone. This seems to be the inexpensive Cote de Rhone of the moment, Paula at Fish Tag turned me onto it a few weeks ago.

What I was eating: small chunks of a pretty spicy fried chicken. Pulled pork sliders (am I the only slob in who thinks slider should be banned at cocktail parties? They’re usually too big to eat in one bite, and if you can’t eat them in a single bite. they slide…all over you), what they were calling mac and greens, which was orecchiette pasta with cheese and greens, good, but not mac and cheese. A very nice thin crust pizza, lovely home cured salmon, corn bread which my friend from the South, said was too sweet, and Helga’s meatballs (made with fish too, so kind of a weird surprise).  So what was my favorite? The fish tacos by a landslide. They were on the most amazing tiny corn taco shells, about 4″ in diameter, and so thin you couldn’t imagine how they could make them without breaking them. I’d love to know how they do them, or who they get them from.

Accidental Locavore Clarence JonesWho I was meeting: not Marcus unfortunately, he was busy seeing to the smooth transition of food and wine, and even though he made some remarks and took photos near our table, he was way to busy to work the room. Al, at the bar pointed out several former Knicks, from the glory days when they used to win…Sitting next to me was Clarence Jones, who was Martin Luther King’s lawyer, and helped draft the “I Have a Dream” speech. Strange coincidence, yesterday at a seminar on Design the Life You Love, I saw an old photo of Dr. King and with him was Clarence. Thanks to Sandra Richards head of diversity for Morgan Stanley for putting together a fun event!

What I thought of the Red Rooster: to be fair, a big party is not the way to judge a restaurant. The room is lovely, and it’s really easy to get there by subway (just upstairs from the 2/3 train at 125th St.), however dinner there is currently booked for the month of March. I would go for lunch to meet friends who live uptown, and would wait for it to calm down before I attempted dinner there. In place of a goody bag, we were all given a copy of Marcus’ book New American Table, so check out Friday’s Cook-Along and see what I decided to make from it, OK?

And thanks to my friend Lisa for the helpful edit!

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Accidental Locavore Coq au VinThis recipe for Coq au vin is one of  the Accidental Locavore’s husband’s favorite dishes. If you want to make it as part of the Cook-Along, check out either Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking or The Way to Cook. It’s basically a recipe for French chicken stew with bacon and red wine, and can be served over mashed potatoes or buttered noodles. It’s pretty easy to make, and the length of time it takes really depends on you. If you have the time and inclination, you can marinate the chicken overnight in the wine, and/or let it braise in a slow cooker. Or do it on the stove, only one pot to clean. You can easily make this for a crowd, just increase everything proportionately. This serves about 4 people. Cooking time 1 hour, plus optional marinating time.

  • 1 chicken cut into 8 pieces
  • flour, salt and pepper for dredging the chicken
  • 2-3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 4 slices bacon (or use an end), cut into 1/2″ strips (lardons)
  • 1 bottle decent red wine (if you won’t drink it, don’t cook with it, we use a basic Cotes de Rhone)
  • 1-2 cups chicken broth
  • 1-2 tablespoons Cognac (optional, but use it)
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste (buy the tubes, then you don’t wonder what to do with the rest of the can)
  • 8 ounces button or baby bella mushrooms, quartered
  • 1 bag frozen pearl onions (trust me it’s easier than peeling fresh ones)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • salt and pepper
  • 1 tablespoon herbs de Provence (optional)

If you want to marinate the chicken, put it and enough red wine to cover it, in covered dish, or Ziploc bag and refrigerate overnight. Don’t panic if it’s a weird shade of purple the next day, it’s just the wine. The next day, remove it from the marinade, toss the marinade, and pat the chicken dry.

If you’re not marinating the chicken,  pat it dry. Heat the olive oil in a big saute pan, or Dutch oven, over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until almost crispy about 5 minutes.  When the bacon is done, remove it from the pan, and put it on paper towels to drain. Raise the heat to medium high. While the bacon is cooking, pour enough flour to dredge the chicken into a shallow bowl, mix in salt and pepper. Dredge the chicken in the flour mixture, and shake off the excess. Brown it in the olive oil/bacon fat on both sides (start skin side down), about 5 minutes a side. Depending on your pan, you may have to do this in batches.

When the chicken is browned, add the rest of the wine, the cognac, and about a cup of chicken broth. You want the wine and broth to come about 2/3 of the way up the chicken. Stir in the tomato paste until mixed in. Add the bacon, mushrooms, onions, bay leaf, herbs de Provence, salt and pepper. Bring it to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cover. Cook over low heat for about an hour until the chicken is tender and falling off the bone.

If you’re using a slow cooker, when the chicken is browned, add it, the bacon, mushrooms, onions, spices, wine, cognac, and chicken broth to the slow cooker. Cover and cook over low heat.

This is optional, but it intensifies the sauce. When the chicken is cooked, remove it from the pan, and put it on a platter tented with aluminum foil to keep it warm. Turn the heat up to high, and bring the sauce to a boil. The longer you boil it, the more it will reduce, and intensify the flavor. When it gets to a consistency and taste you like, add the chicken back in, serve and enjoy.

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Accidental Locavore Raw Milk Cheeses

I love cheese. One of the great pleasures in going to France is the never-ending arrays of cheeses, made from all kinds of milk, cow, goat, and sheep. And happily for the Accidental Locavore, there are more and better local, artisanal cheeses. So reading that the FDA in its (warped) attempts to make us healthy and safe, while still kowtowing to big business, wants to ban raw milk cheeses, gets me really upset! Currently raw milk cheeses have to be aged for 60 days, that being a ruling from 1940 to prevent typhoid…know anyone who’s had typhoid recently? The ruling may extend that to 90 days, or ban raw milk cheeses all together, no one knows. I don’t know about you, but in my 50 plus years on this planet, I have never been sick from eating cheese. Raw oysters, yes, cheese never and I’ve probably eaten a lot more cheese than oysters (hmmm…might need to make up for that).

Why can’t we be trusted to act like adults in this matter? If you think eating raw milk cheese is going to do you harm, don’t eat it. According to an article in the New York Times, “In one outbreak, 38 people in five states became sick from raw milk gouda made by Bravo Farms of Traver, Calif., and sold through Costco. In another outbreak, eight people in four states were sickened by bacteria traced to soft cheeses made by Sally Jackson, a pioneering cheesemaker in Oroville, Wash.” The article goes on to say  that investigators haven’t determined if it was the raw milk that was responsible for the outbreaks. But let’s get real here, two outbreaks involving 46 people. I’m sorry they were sick, however that’s hardly grounds for banning raw milk cheese. And who does it hurt? The little guys, of course, the artisanal cheese makers. “A very important and thriving section of the American agricultural scene is in danger of being compromised or put out of business if the 60-day minimum were to be raised or if raw milk cheeses were to be entirely outlawed,” said Liz Thorpe, a vice president of Murray’s Cheese, a Manhattan retailer where about half the cheese is made with raw milk. “ In the interest of research, I went down to Murray’s to scope out some of the cheeses that could be potentially affected, and came home with an amazing blue cheese from Rogue Creamery and the prize winning Pleasant Ridge Extra Aged from Uplands Cheese Company. What a shame it would be make these cheeses extinct.

What’s the big deal? Flavor. This from Artisanal’s website “This bacteria interacts with the milk, giving a greater, deeper flavor within the cheese. In the United States, the FDA restricts the distribution of raw (unpasteurized) milk cheeses aged less than 60 days. Recently, North American producers have seized the opportunity to create vibrant, nuanced and remarkable Raw Milk Cheeses.” If you’ve ever had a wonderful brie in France, all ripe and oozing, and tried to replicate that in this country, fuggedaboutit. Velveeta and processed American cheese slices probably have their place somewhere, but think of how much poorer we would be without glorious idiosyncratic raw milk cheeses from artisanal producers. And are we any healthier eating those processed slices? I don’t think so. What do you think? Do you eat raw milk cheese?

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Accidental Locavore Potato GratinPotato gratin to go with rack of lamb for Valentine’s Day, what’s a better combination? So the Accidental Locavore went straight to the source for this week’s cook-along recipe, Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking. I wanted a recipe for a classic French potato gratin and found it with the Gratin Dauphinois. The only major change I made with it was to omit the cooking on top of the stove as I’m sure the gratin pan I have wasn’t flameproof, so I just cooked it in oven a little longer. The book says for 6 people, maybe my guests were just hungry, it fed 4. Adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking.

  • 2 pounds potatoes (I used Yukon Golds)
  • 1/2 clove garlic
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon pepper
  • 1 cup (4 ounces) Swiss cheese, grated (I used a Gruyere from Murray’s Cheese)
  • 1 cup boiling milk

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Peel the potatoes and slice them 1/8″ thick. Place them in a bowl of cold water, and drain when ready to use.

Rub the baking dish with the cut garlic. Grease the dish with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Drain the potatoes and dry them with a towel. Spread half of them in the dish. Sprinkle half the salt, pepper,cheese and butter over them. Add the rest of the potatoes, and cover with the rest of the cheese, butter, salt and pepper. Pour the boiling milk over the potatoes.

Julia says to set the baking dish over heat and when simmering move to the upper third of the oven and bake for 20-30 minutes or until the potatoes are tender, the milk is absorbed, and the top is browned. I just popped them in the oven and cooked them until they were browned, about 30 minutes. Serve and enjoy.

My rating: 3 stars. The potatoes were a little overcooked, and there was no sign of the cheese. Next time, I would use more cheese, and maybe substitute cream for the milk. A little fresh thyme and/or nutmeg might help. It may have been the potatoes I used, but the dish was kind of watery. However, potatoes with cheese, milk and butter, how bad can it be? I’ll definitely keep rubbing the cut garlic on the baking dish.

Frank’s rating: 5 stars

Robin’s rating: 4.5 stars…”the potatoes were PERFECT, and seasoned perfectly to let the flavor of the potato shine…the only reason it’s not higher for me is because I would have probably put a little more cheese in it, but I love cheese!”

Schecky’s rating: 4 stars,” and say it was simple and delicious – a perfect compliment for the rest of the meal.”

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